Where to Eat, Stay and Play in Provincetown, Cape Cod's Historic LGBTQ+ and Arts Haven

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A lot of beach towns can feel similar to each other, but there truly isn’t anywhere else like Provincetown, Massachusetts. Getting here requires a deliberate effort, as it’s nestled at the outermost tip of Cape Cod, about sixty-five miles down Route 6 from the mainland’s Sagamore Bridge. There’s no accidentally finding yourself here—but seek and you shall find.
AdvertisementAdvertisement#«R25ekkr8lb2m7nfblbH1» iframe AdvertisementAdvertisement#«R45ekkr8lb2m7nfblbH1» iframeToday, Provincetown remains one of the most vibrant and beautiful destinations on the East Coast, albeit something of a chameleon. It has a reputation as both an LGBTQ+ summer colony and a niche artists’ enclave. But Provincetown is, in fact, also deeply entwined with the American narrative: It was Provincetown Harbor where the Pilgrims first anchored before landing at Plymouth, and it was in these waters that they signed the Mayflower Compact, the first document to establish self-government in the New World. People of all persuasions and expressions have been coming here for centuries to live freer lives.
If your own journey brings you to Provincetown, you’ll find that this is one of the most welcoming beach towns in the country, if not the world. It’s certainly the only place where you might go to the beach and find VIPs like Ryan Murphy or Ken Fulk, next to a local family, next to a gaggle of drag queens. Everyone is welcome, and everyone is welcome to be themselves in P-town. Here’s where we suggest you eat, stay and explore for the best things to do in Provincetown.
Getting to (and around) Provincetown
Yes, you can drive, but with Cape traffic, the journey can easily take twice as long as it should, and nobody deserves to start off a P-town trip in a sour mood. The ferry is the way to go: It’s scenic, serves drinks, and the journey takes about ninety minutes. There are two available from Boston: Bay Stay Cruises from the World Trade Center in the Seaport, and City Cruises from Long Wharf next to the New England Aquarium (and if you’re early for the ferry and have an hour or so to kill, the Aquarium is totally worthwhile). If you don’t mind spending a little more—sometimes three or four times the cost of the ferry—the fastest way is to fly. Cape Air offers regular service in the summer months from Logan International Airport and Westchester County Airport in New York.

The best things to do in Provincetown
First things first: Climb the Pilgrim Monument. The largest all-granite structure in the United States, this 252-foot tower stands in the center of town. The climb up can be a bit strenuous, but at the top you’ll enjoy truly breathtaking views. On a clear day, it really contextualizes just how remote Provincetown is, here at the far end of Cape Cod.
AdvertisementAdvertisement#«R2dekkr8lb2m7nfblbH1» iframe AdvertisementAdvertisement#«R4dekkr8lb2m7nfblbH1» iframeThe beach, too, is a huge draw here. Rent some bikes from Provincetown Bike Rentals or The Bike Shack then head north to the Province Lands Bike Trail, which winds its way through sand dunes, cranberry bogs, and coastal forests. You’ll ultimately end up on the northern edge of the peninsula at Race Point Beach, which truly feels like the ends of the earth. Not a biker? Uber is also available, but if you’re traveling without a car, bikes make the journey quicker, as cellphone reception at Race Point can be limited. Another popular option (that’s more easily accessed on foot) is Herring Cove Beach. And if you’re craving a long walk, head towards Long Point Beach. But you’ll want to be careful because it’s accessed via a three-mile hike along the stone dike at the end of Commercial Street, and can get pretty hairy if high tide is rolling in.
There are some great eco-tours in Provincetown, too. The surrounding waters are a popular feeding ground for whales from April through October, and Dolphin Fleet Whale Watch guarantees whale sightings—or will issue a complimentary pass for a future trip. Prone to seasickness, or simply not a boat person? Consider Art’s Dune Tours, a local operator who uses rugged SUVs to bring visitors out into the protected dunes of the Cape Cod National Seashore—a thrilling adventure that never leaves the security of terra firma.
Rambling around Commercial Street is always a worthwhile endeavor, as there are many memorable shops worth checking out: modern clothing, housewares, and gifts at GreyScale; antique furniture waiting for a new chapter at Dominick Joseph Antiques; menswear at Sault New England; the absolute best selection of beach reads and diverse authors at East End Books; classic home decor, gifts, and stationery at White Hare Home; tea, apothecary sundries, and souvenirs at The Captain’s Daughters; and elegant decoupage at John Derian New England.
What sets Provincetown apart from so many other beach towns is its truly robust arts scene. On a rainy day—and even a sunny day, it’s that good—a visit to check out the Provincetown Art Association and Museum’s rotating exhibitions is more than worthwhile. Looking to support local artists and bring home a piece of your own? Adam Peck Gallery, Four Eleven Gallery, and Cortile Gallery, all on Commercial Street, are some of the best galleries on the entire Cape.
AdvertisementAdvertisement#«R2iekkr8lb2m7nfblbH1» iframe AdvertisementAdvertisement#«R4iekkr8lb2m7nfblbH1» iframeFor a drink and a dance, there’s never a dull moment in this town. As mentioned, there’s always some sort of energetic happening at any of Gifford House’s multiple nightlife venues. And true P-town aficionados love the relaxed atmosphere and craft beers of the Provincetown Brewing Co., which this year relocated from its original HQ to a new site inside the hotel-cum-entertainment complex The Crown & Anchor. And don’t leave without stopping by the Boatslip Resort & Beach Club for its afternoon “tea dance.” A casual daytime party held on the resort’s massive pool deck overlooking the harbor, it’s a daily ritual that’s as routine in Provincetown as the rising and setting of the sun.

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At The Lobster Pot, the food is great, and its neon-lit interiors and classic New England seafood are a throwback to the salty Cape Cod of yore.traveler1116/GettyWhere to eat
For such a compact town, Provincetown’s food scene shines—and seems to get better and better with each passing year. For breakfast, it’s all about grab-and-go. Start your day with a chorizo and cheese croissant from Provincetown Portuguese Bakery, or one of the pillowy bacon, egg and cheeses from Far Land Provisions.
Come lunchtime, all roads seem to gather at The Canteen, an all-day fast casual affair with a sandy side alley of picnic tables the restaurant cheekily refers to as “beach seating.” Everything is great here: fish tacos, lobster rolls, and killer frosé that’s best sipped, not chugged.
There are many fantastic places for dinner, but a few stand out. The northern Italian food at Ciro & Sal’s feels especially satisfying after a day of exploration. And the spot everyone is talking about for 2025 is Ceraldi, a seasonally-driven, seven-course tasting menu by chef Michael Ceraldi; he started his restaurant in Provincetown in 2013, then moved to nearby Wellfleet for ten years, but is finally back (reservations are expected to open any day now). For something a little more casual, the pub fare at Local 186 lands just right. And if all else fails, check out The Lobster Pot. Is it a hip, happening spot? Not at all—but the food is great, and its neon-lit interiors and classic New England seafood are a throwback to the salty Cape Cod of yore.
AdvertisementAdvertisement#«R2qekkr8lb2m7nfblbH1» iframe AdvertisementAdvertisement#«R4qekkr8lb2m7nfblbH1» iframeAnd most importantly, check out Spiritus Pizza, a family-run pizza joint since 1971. Open until 2 a.m., it’s one of the only late-night food spots on all of Cape Cod—and hits the spot after a night of dancing.

Where to stay in Provincetown
The accommodations in Provincetown might be some of the most exciting in all of Cape Cod. In terms of where you should stay, the first question is whether you want to be in close proximity to Commercial Street—the main drag (no pun intended) where most of the restaurants, shops, and nightlife are located—or if you want something a little more secluded.
Salt House Inn is the clear winner for design lovers. Partners David Bond and Kevin O’Shea first met when working for Morgans Hotels Group in the 2000s, so the vibe-y aesthetics and attention to service here are top notch. On the outside, it’s a lovingly restored 19th century building that once housed salt miners (hence the name), and whose minimalist bedrooms make the perfect backdrop for the owners’ curated collections of antiques. It’s located a short walk from Commercial Street, so you’re close to all of the action without necessarily being in the thick of it.
If nightlife and really feeling like a part of the Provincetown community are what you’re after, then Gifford House is for you. The building dates back to 1858, when it served as the absolute last stop for cross-country stagecoaches. The rooms are relatively straightforward, but the porch bar, lounge, nightclub and theater always have something going on. On peak summer weekends, there’s never a dull moment at Gifford House, and the staff treat guests like welcome friends, providing expert insight about the most exciting shows and parties happening during your stay.
AdvertisementAdvertisement#«R31ekkr8lb2m7nfblbH1» iframe AdvertisementAdvertisement#«R51ekkr8lb2m7nfblbH1» iframeAnd finally, if you want a glimpse of Provincetown’s quieter side, book one of the boho-minimalist rooms at AWOL Provincetown, specifically one of the second-story rooms, which have views over Provincetown’s expansive salt marshes. At sunset, grab a s’mores kit from the lobby, sit down by one of the outdoor fire pits, and you’re sure to have a serene, restful evening. The best part? It’s an enjoyable fifteen-minute walk to Commercial Street from here, so good times are never far off.

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Provincetown has a reputation as both an LGBTQ+ summer colony and a niche artists’ enclave.Joseph Prezioso/GettyBeyond Pride: When to visit Provincetown
Since the pandemic, P-town has increasingly become a year-round community. Many of the businesses and restaurants close during the coldest winter months, but there’s always something to see or do here, even if it’s just going for some peaceful walks on the beach. For one thing, the town does an excellent job of promoting various festivals throughout the year, each speaking to a different sector of this vibrant town’s audience: Carnival in August for the party scene; Family Week, Womxn of Color Weekend, Girl Splash, and Bear Week, all in the summer; Spooky Bear at Halloween; and Holly Folly in December, and that’s just the tip of the iceberg.
The Provincetown Office of Tourism website is a great resource for further information and dates. Each season brings a renewed yet different sense of wonder and magnetism to this singular seaside town. Whenever you visit, you’re sure to fall under its spell.
Originally Appeared on Condé Nast Traveler
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